Owner of Agar Aura, Taha Syed, just posted a very informative article on the unique scents and burning characteristics of agarwood as they relate to the locality from which the wood was harvested. The article can be found here:
June 2011 Top Ten Indian Ouds
June 26, 2011 at 12:10 pm (Marian, Oud)
When I first started smelling oud I didn’t understand how anyone could enjoy Indian oils. I don’t mind the smell of barnyards, but it certainly wasn’t something I wanted to put on my skin.
Over the last few years my taste has expanded and become more eclectic. The strong scents of leather and clean hay, even fecal smells that I first found offensive, now engage me. Their unabashedly primal fortitude speaks to an urge deep inside me- a part of me that is more lusty, uninhibited and free. There’s no way I’d wear these more animalic Indian ouds in public, but when I’m alone they stimulate and excite me and make me feel strong and secure.
My favorite Indian Ouds that fall under the “barnyard” category are:
*Uns Fine Crafts Assam Ultimate
One day I came across an Indian oud that I really liked, precisely because it did NOT have that barnyard element. It was much more dignified and composed than the powerful ouds above. Since then I’ve acquired other Hindi oils that can be easily worn in public without fear of embarrassment. My favorite ouds in the “statesman” category are:
*Tajal Bakshi’s 32 years old Hindi
Then there are some ouds that fall in between these 2 categories. They are distinctly Indian but their animalic side is balanced by other notes that either modify or overshadow the “barnyard” aspects. In this category are:
Oudhasi’s Assam Flora (aptly named, although it’s not “floral” in the traditional sense)
Oudhasi’s Assam 15 (a sweet ethereal vapor tames the leather)
Areej Al Ammerat’s Hindi Manipouri (lots of thick, juicy plums in this one)
I don’t think my collection would be complete without having at least one oil from each category. But if I could leave you with one thought, it is to please give “Hindi” ouds a chance. It may take time, but I’d be very surprised if there isn’t at least one Indian oil for every oud lover out there.
Please note: The oils with the * are no longer available. My next top 10 will only include oils that are currently for sale.
May 2011 Top Ten
June 5, 2011 at 10:27 pm (Ross)
This month has been an interesting olfactory adventure (of a sort) as I have had a head cold, sinus something, etc for the last three weeks. So smoke did not work all that well for much of the month. So I pulled out my assortment of trusty incense heaters, resins, wood chips, essential oils and absolutes plus assorted loose incense mixtures and cut loose. The sticks that are listed were towards the start of the month.
Kyukyodo Sho ran Koh: One of the great deals in incense, not inexpensive, but worth the cost. It’s a huge bundle and the scent is wonderful. It’s made many a Top Ten with good reason. To a degree it reminds me of some of the really good Indian incense where the floral notes, resins and perfume all combine and compliment the (in this case) aloeswood. Kyukyodo are tough to get now days, check with Japan Incense/Kohshi for whats in stock. There might be a new shipment coming in soon, with…new stuff!…quick, prepare the credit card for damage control
Baieido Koh Shi Boku: I am almost out of my bundle of this and I just noticed that the price has gone up, reflecting the major price increases that the incense makers are having to pay to get the raw materials, plus the yen to dollar ratio. Regardless of all that I really love this, it has loads of subtle nuances of scent going on, all aimed at highlighting the shear beauty of the wood.
Daihatsu Sandalwood Chip: Probably the best sandalwood you can get in the US. Sometimes you can also find it in what is called “leaf cut” or very thing slabs. On the heater the scent is a that wonderful creamy sandalwood with an almost cinnamon top note. Not to be missed, but you will get spoiled.
Shunkohdo Houshou: This aloeswood blend has a great, light chocolate top note to it, which, in combination with the woods is a wonderful and very elegant mix, not to mention, olfactory treat. It’s also at a pretty good price, at around $20 for a roll.
Yamada Matsu Sandalwood: Kohshi has these (unless I wiped them out). They are essentially pure or almost pure, sandalwood in short, thick, sticks. They are amazing! They come in a small wood box and would make a very nice present. If you crave sandalwood, without all the extras, check these out.
Minorien Sandalwood Loose Blend: A very nice loose blend, good for the heater or straight onto a coal. The sandalwood stands out and the spice mix that rounds out the blend has some great notes to add.
Mermade Magickal Incense Amulets: These are small cake like disks, with a design pressed into them. They are woody with a very “Eastern/Oriental” somewhat sweet note that rides across the top. There is a very comfortable feel to these, just the thing for late nights. They are made with very high quality ingredients, as is the case with all of Mermades offering.
Mermade Magickal Hougary Superior Frankincense: Frankincense is one of those scents that work for me almost always. These are a very good grade with that subtle citrus scent that only shows up in the best Frankincense. Unless you need to buy kilos this is a great way to go.
Sensory Essence ROSE DAMASCENA – Organic: I used a lot of this during the last few weeks. I would gently heat it on my Aroma Stone heater, put a drop or two onto some sandalwood chips on the incense heater (instant Attar !) or go whole hog and dab a drop on my nose, because I am a card carrying member of The Excessive Aromatic Users! This is the best Rose Otto I have found so far (Thanks Marian). Rose Otto is pricy but it packs a punch and this one is beyond beautiful. She also carries a White Rose that is also glorious.
Shroff Channabasappa Little Woods: I ended up putting this one on the heater as the smoke was a bit much. It is different but then again it’s like getting two incenses in the same stick. I plane on trying this with many of the Indian incenses I have. I think the floral’s maybe a bit restrained on the heater, which for me is OK as the resins/wood come out more.
Fifth Anniversary of the Natural Perfumers Guild
June 1, 2011 at 9:55 pm (Incense, Perfume, Ross, Themed Articles, Uncategorized)
So today marks the fifth anniversary of the Natural Perfumers Guild, which is a good start. It has come a ways, gone through changes and looks to be in it for the long haul. You can find a list of the different blogs and bloggers at the bottom of this post that are writing something for this event (plus, I think, there are a few other places that will mention something about it).
I have always been attracted to the scented side of things. Making things out of different woods in my Dads shop at home was great because of the smells of the different woods. The subtle difference in scents between different raw clays and glazes when making pottery added a whole other dimension to ceramics. Hiking, camping, waking up in the mornings in the mountains and taking that first deep breath in at first light were very special moments. The sense of smell adds a huge, but at the same time, very subtle boost to ones sense of the world around them. It’s also so often overlooked.
When using incense it took me awhile to understand that the ones I gravitated to were generally those which used natural ingredients. There is just something that “smells” different to me between those built with woods, resins, herbs, spices and real oils and those that are not. Not that it’s not possible to make odd/bad smelling incenses or perfumes with naturals (as some of my own experiments are examples of
But for my nose, generally, the naturals just work better. The incense has lead to perfumes and classes with Mandy Aftel, who has been a great source of inspiration and knowledge and an appreciation of the real Art of Perfumery.
I love to source out new scents and spend hours on the net looking into obscure leads on new places. I am always fascinated at how different the same plant can smell from each place. As I write I can see a box with at least ten different bottles of Rose in it. Each is different and special in its own way. So I find it funny to hear, “It has Rose in it”. Really?, from where? What year? How it distilled and what was the weather/soil/water like in the area where it was grown? Using natural materials can be very tricky, very demanding and an takes an overwhelming passion.
It isalso getting much more expensive and difficult to obtain many of the key ingredients. The prices for ALoeswood and Sandalwoods have recently gone up around 20% to 30%, that assuming you can find them. The same holds true for most of the oils used in perfumery. Not to mention the many governmental restrictions being imposed or thought up. Its a great time to be into he naturals and at the same time it is a bit scary.
So, when you find them…enjoy! -Ross
Ca Fleure Bon: anya’s garden; Blossoming Tree Bodycare: Being Led by the Nose: Anu Essentials Blog: Olfactory Rescue Service: I’m Just Saying: Providence Perfume :
Bellyflowers: Ellenoire: Aromatics International: Olive and Oud: Lord’s Jester Inc: A Little Ol’Factory: Perfume Journal:
Natural Perfumes: The Western Cape Perfumery:
Aromatherapy Contessa: Absolute Trygve: