So, to get ready for the reviews of twelve different perfumes constructed with some aspect of musk in them I decided to assemble a sort of “musky reference materials library”. I pulled out two different small bottles of real musk tincture, one bottle of musk grains, my entire collection of Japanese musk scented incenses( around 25 different ones)(problem with musk, why would you think that?), a good bottle of single malt scotch and some Hakusui Aloeowood/Musk fired BBQ ribs …just kidding about the ribs, although I do have the Hakusui smoldering next to me :). The samples started to come in and I started spraying them onto paper strips or my wrists. People around here got very used to me putting my wrist near their nose and asking the magic question “So, what does this one do for you?” There were a lot of really big musky floral’s, very classic in style, some had incredible longevity and silage, some seemingly faint, a couple or three that seemed totally different from the others and in general a complete treat of an aromatic ride. I was amazed at how creative and spontaneous the perfumers were. Most perfumers that I have talked to, not to mention incense makers, do not create a finished product in a matter of a couple of weeks( Shoyeido is famous for spending ten years on the Kyara blend Sho-kako). This may, of course, be completely different in a large perfume house where production is all. That does not even include the maturation time involved. In fact there are a couple in here that I believe will be much smoother in time. All in all the results here were pretty amazing to me. Many of them stayed within a list of “botanical musk notes” that the Perfumers Guild sent with the perfume brief, then again some just went for broke and used some pretty outrageous materials.
Some of these really remind me of incenses, and if possible I will try and note this.
Since it seems that we are giving away a bottle of Cravings from Ambrosia at “Perfumes By Nature” it seemed reasonable to put this one at the start. The name pretty much says it all, most especially if you have need’s, chocolate, for one, not the normal stuff but the really hard core and high end kind, This is very potent with good sillage and is long lasting. It is also very sexy in unexpected ways. The cocoa is there from the get go and in one way or another continues through out, yet there are so many other notes the weave their way around, through and over it. Somewhere after an hour or so the Aloeswood/Oud notes really come through. In the incense world I would compare it to ShunKohdo’s Houshou(cocoa plus aloeswood) mixed in with Nefertum Kyphi from Mermade Magickal(deep, mysterious, musky and sacred). A very heady mix with the idea of musk pretty firmly attached throughout. Would you wear this to dinner, maybe not. But, if you were interested in being dessert….
When the sample of “Graines de Paradis” from Sharini Parfums Naturels came I just stared at the materials list for almost ten minutes in amazement. You can see the list at the link above. Nicholas obviously goes to great lengths to source special ingredients that meet his demanding standards. This one also has great sillage and can last quite awhile. In that time it holds a stunning floral note but after some time the Oud and musk notes do come much more into play. In the very first few seconds there is a wonderful citrus and ginger note the really got my attention, after this all the floral’s come out and there are a lot of them. It is interesting to me that those all get to shine at some point, very nicely done. This one I got to take up into the mountains with me, huge difference in scent at 6000 feet up. Much woodier, still floral, but more wood notes.
If you are interested in a chance to win a bottle of Cravings from Perfumes By Nature, leave a comment in THIS posting and sometime around next Friday I will do a drawing and post the result over the weekend.
Be sure to drop in to the other blogs listed below and see all the different observations from the reviewers and for a real time update of postings for these blogs check out Anya’ Garden. — Ross
I Smell Therefore I Am – Abigail Levin
Perfume Shrine – Elena Vosnaki
The Non Blonde – Gaia Fishler
Indie Perfumes – Lucy Raubertas
Bitter Grace Notes – Maria Browning
CaFleureBon – Michelyn Camen
Olfactarama – Pat Borow
First Nerve – Avery Gilbert
Olfactory Rescue Service – Ross Urrere
Grain de Musc – Denyse Beaulieu